Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Big Bad Hurricane Bill

Well Hurricane Bill came and went and gave the Jersey shore the expected juice we love. Friday night was pretty good. A storm front rolled through, the wind turned off shore and cleaned up the chest high surf. Saturday morning was crappy, on shore wind, rain and a building swell. I started out Sunday morning 6 AM, I picked up my buddy "Doggie" in Ocean City and headed south to Strathmare. When we got there the swell was running about 6 to 8 feet with no wind and glassy conditions. We hit it for about 2 hours until the winds picked up and blew it out. The seas continued building to about 10 to 12ft (that's faces) at around 14 sec. I had a tough time getting out, but when a finally did make it on my third try the prize was well worth it! I had me a couple bombs, one right and one big, big left. You know there's nothing like gliding down the face of a big old peak with my 10' Yater Spoon http://www.yater.com/history.html My knee felt pretty good while I was out surfing but when I got out of the water was another story. There was a bit of a current running. I wound up about 6 blocks from my beach. Walking back was a bitch! When I finally got back to my spot the stinkin thing felt like it was on fire...no kidding. That night my wife headed home to hang out with our 13 year old Yellow Lab Otis and I headed up to Captain Ron's house in Long Beach Island, he's the un-offical mayor of LBI and at 55 he tears the place up. The wind was on it pretty bad so we decided to drink whisky, toast good old King Neptune and wait until Monday morning. I was glad we did. 4 to 6 LBI 21st Street perfection! (see pictures above)
A bunch of the guys in my crew showed up as well as some new friends (Patrick, Kyle, Z-man, Cake Boy, Little Mark, Wooter, Wardo, and the Captain) Everyone killed it. (even me) We surfed for about 4 hours and would have stayed out long but the wind switched and tide got to high. I was one of those days I will always remember. After that session I didn't care what the F&^$ing knee felt like. I even drove over my cousin Sue's and gave her 12 year old son Alex his first surf lesson. Considering the semi-heavy conditions he did pretty damn good for his first time out. Caught his first wave on an 8ft soft top board. Man, he was super stoked! I love sharing the sport that gives me so much pleasure. Teaching my little cousin is somthing he will remember for life like all of us who remember our first wave. On the way home I had to stop at Taco Bell like I always do for a little post session feast. When I got home my wife said I was acting like a little kid. I say wouldn't you after a day like that! Today reality hits, going for the pre-admission testing on Thursday. The good news is there maybe a little swell running Friday I'm going the see if I can drag Big Wave Dave's (aka the Sloth) old ass out there. I don't think he's been out since 67' Time's getting tight I got to get as many waves as I can before Senior Cut Day. Can't wait UGH!


  1. Damn!! My comment disappeared into the great abyss.

    What I said was something like . . . good on ya for getting some of that swell. The memory of these sessions will serve you well during your comparatively short recovery.

    Tom and I are now on the other side. The only person missing is . . . you!

  2. Yep it was a great little swell. As good a NJ gets! Yesterday's juice from Danny was good too. Just had the pre-addmin testing today. weeks to go. Thanks for keeping tabs on me.

  3. That was an inspiring surf story!!! I was just looking at the surf here in Central California from atop the hill....a little junky. I was wondering about H-Bill waves, but hadn't checked back in for while. Nice photos very inspiring!
    About 12 days to go before you increase your bionicness! Yes, Surfsister and I will be waiting for you on the rehab side....surfsister has been shredding the west coast!

    Been moving from San Francisco to Central Cal over the last week...whata a pain in my....knees! Had down day yesterday; feel better today and started back to PT. 122 and 132 degrees flexion in rt and lt knees, respectively.

    Peace Out,